A Selection of Roman Restaurants

Thu, 08 May 2008 11:45:09 +0200

Ristorante Asinocotto
Via dei Vascellari, 48
Roma
Italy
Tel/Fax: (+39) 06 5898985
http://www.giulianobrenna.com

Score: 5*

Up-and-coming young chef Giuliano Brenna has possibly Rome’s most talked-about restaurant on his hands this season. The Trastevere district, where Asinocotto is situated, is one of the best parts of town to spend an evening and the two rainbow flags outside make finding the restaurant a breeze.

Inside, the menu is a carefully executed blend of the traditional and the new wave. Fish dishes feature in all of the first three courses as do some exquisite vegetarian fare, but this is neither a fish nor a vegetarian restaurant. I started with courgette flowers stuffed with a delicate cheese sauce, followed this with ravioli stuffed with pheasant, chicken-livers and black truffle, and for my main course enjoyed an exquisite duck breast in a mandarin and green-tea sauce.

Somehow, my companion managed to order soup (or something soup-ish) for both first and second course. My only criticism of the restaurant would be that the table staff did not offer a little bit more guidance at this point, but I suppose that this could be argued either way.

Brenna is also an expert with deserts, something of a rarity in Rome. I had a deliriously light chocolate mousse, while my companion went into ecstasy over her semifreddo alla zabiaone. Gary, a gregarious American sitting at an adjacent table, was equally excited over his tortina al cioccolato.

Last but not least, the wine list is extensive, lands on your table with a reassuring thud, and makes no compromises in quality for the sake of quantity.

Asinocotto doesn’t operate a sittings system, so if you do manage to book a table (and you should book in advance) then it is yours for the evening. If you only have a chance to visit one restaurant in Rome, then this has to be the one.

Antico Arco
Piazzale Aurelio, 7
Roma
Italy
Tel: (+39) 06 5815274

Score: 5*

Another restaurant best suited to a gastronomic treat, rather than an everyday feed, is Antico Arco. Situated on the Gianiculum Hill, its location offers fantastic views across Trastevere and the city beyond. Inside, the food is of an equally impressive standard.

One of the specialities of the house is their risotto al Castelmagno which is unbelivable cheesy, rich and unctuous. It is something that you have to taste to believe but you won't even have to rely upon snatching a mouthful from your companion's plate, if you opt for a different primi. Thankfully, those clever people at Antico Arco bring you a small tasting portion of whatever your companion is having, if you smile sweetly when you order.

Main courses vary according to the seasons and rely on the best fresh ingredients available, cooked with a distinctly Italian panache but often with a contemporary twist. Deserts are created in-house and you can expect something a little more interesting than everyday tiramisu and panna cotta! The wine list is extensive, with a heavy leaning towards some interesting Tuscan vintages.

Il Matriciano
Via dei Gracchi, 49-61
Roma
Italy
Tel: (+39) 06 3213040 /3212327
http://www.romatour.com/matriciano

Score: 3*

This is the place to visit for classic cucina romanesca, slightly off the main tourist track and therefore primarily a haunt of Vatican types and men in suits that look like they must be politicians...

I began with the mixed vegetable antipasti and was not disappointed, whilst my companion enjoyed her prosciutto crudo. I followed-up with the classic roman dish bucatini alla matriciana, something I have eaten hundreds of times and never as well as here. Next came osso buco, again “delizioso” or “squisito” as the Italians assure me that one is supposed to say.

The house wine comes in jugs and there is nothing wrong with that. Service was friendly and unhurried and the prices incredibly good value.

For classic Roman fare, untainted by menu turistico, then this has to be one of the best.

Ristorante Abruzzi
Via del Vaccaro, 1
Roma
Italy
Tel: (+39) 06 6793897

Score: 3*

Again, the Roman mixed vegetable antipasti platter was irresistible: slices of frittata and bruscetta, a courgette slice topped with breadcrumbs and grilled, roasted onion, little croquette type things, stuffed mushrooms, pickled artichoke, etc, etc.

I followed with a pasta called tonarelli (thicker than spaghetti) served with peas, mushroom and tomato. Delicious!

The waiters were of the variety only normally found in Italy, of the older generation and having dedicated their careers to discretely guiding their patrons’ choices whilst treading the careful line between friendliness and over-familiarity. Our guy was a star.

A wonderful touch at the end of the meal, was that together with the bill arrived a couple of bottles of digestivi (amaro and sambuca) from which we were encouraged to help ourselves. Now that’s true old-world hospitality!

Taverna dei Mercanti
Piazza dei Mercanti, 3/A
Roma
Italy
Tel: (+39) 06 5881693

Score: 3*

Flaming torches mark the entrance to this popular taverna in trendy Trastevere. The interior comprises several rooms with upturned clinker-built boats and antique agricultural machinery adorning the roof space. The tables sport red and white tablecloths and the menus arrive rolled-up like a scroll (and double as a placemat).

The food is good and wholesome and completely devoid of pretension. Excellent pizzas are baked in a wood-fired oven and succulent cuts of meat and sausages are grilled in an open fireplace with a minimum of interference.

This place gets terribly busy, as it is popular with locals looking for a hearty feed, individual travellers and tour groups alike. At the busiest times, service can become a little slow, especially by non-Italian standards, so make regular eye-contact with your waiter. Phone ahead and book, especially at the weekends.

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A Selection of Roman Restaurants